Game Review: Brass

brass-cover
Box Photo by Benjamin Pachner

Brass is a medium-weight strategy board game for 3 to 4 players. It was designed by Martin Wallace, and was first published in 2007 by Warfrog Games in the UK. Since then, it has been distributed in US, and to date, has enjoyed two successful reprints. The copy of the game used in this review is the first US edition.

Please note: This is just a general overview and review of the game, not a careful walk-through of the rules. There is plenty of in-depth discussion of Brass in the forums at BoardGameGeek, if that’s what you’re after.

A brief rundown

In the game of Brass, you are an industrialist entrepreneur in 19th-century Lancashire, England. Your goal is to build cotton mills, coal mines, iron works, ports, shipyards, canals, and railways, each of which can be used by you (and the other players) in some fashion to earn money and score points. Meanwhile, the other players are trying to do the same thing – it’s a race to see who can best take advantage of the economy.

Brass is one of those games that encourages you to plan out your actions ahead of time. In order to score, you have to build. In order to build, for example, not only must you have enough pounds to pay for the building, but you often must have coal as well, and you’ll be presented the choice of developing your own coal mines, using someone else’s mines (which gives them victory points), or buying coal at the market price.

One extremely cool aspect of the economy in Brass is that players influence both demand and supply. If there is a glut of coal on the board, then it can be had very cheaply. In a coal shortage, you’ll pay dearly for it (as well as raise the price for players who buy after you). Of course, you can always build a coal mine to increase the supply, thereby driving the price down and earning you income at the same time.

That was just one example. There is far more to Brass than I’m describing here, but suffice it to say that it’s a deep, tense, satisfying experience to play. More on that later.

brass-board
Photo by Geo

What’s in the box?

The physical components of Brass are amazingly good, with one exception which I’ll mention now: the coins. The coins are categorically awful, nothing more than plastic tiddly-winks that are difficult to stack, and have a propensity for slipping (and even flying) all over the place. Throw them away, and use poker chips instead.

Now that the one truly negative bit has been outed, I’ll focus on the overwhelmingly positive. First, the artwork is absolutely fantastic, very thematic and evocative of the period. The game board presents the rough geographical location of each town featured in the game, as well as several flavor illustrations. The cards are attractive and quite useable.

brass-cards
Photo by Henk Rolleman

The player colors (red, yellow, green, purple) are well chosen, and easily distinguishable. Each player receives his/her own set of hefty and well-printed building tiles in his/her color. The wooden bits are quite adequate, as one might expect of any serious Eurogame: black and orange cubes to represent coal and iron, respectively.

brass-board-detail1
Photo by Geo

Lastly, I must admit that the rulebook, although well-set typographically and attractive graphically, is horribly organized. The rules aren’t simple as it is, and the way the rules are organized certainly doesn’t make them any easier. Thankfully, there are resources available on BoardGameGeek to help clarify the rulebook’s shortcomings.

How to play (in a nutshell)

Player order is not seating order, as it is with most games. In Brass, the money players spend is tracked, and the player that spent the least in the previous round is first player in the next round, second-lowest spender = 2nd player, and so on. Thus, the player order will most likely change from round to round. This is a really cool balancing mechanism that I wish more games had. You have to watch your spending, because this will affect your order in the next round, and therefore your choices of which spaces are left available on the board (the early players get first choice of the prime locations).

Another trick is that only the top tile on each of your personal industry stacks is available to be built. Typically (but not always), the more rewarding tiles are towards the bottom of each stack, so each player has to choose whether to build down through a particular industry, or develop the industry (remove tiles off the top).

brass-tiles
Photo by Henk Rolleman

The game takes place over two Eras: the Canal Era and the Rail Era, respectively. You start with a hand of 8 cards, each of which contains either a location on the board (for example, the city of Manchester) or a type of industry (cotton, coal, iron, port, or shipyard). Each turn, you will take 2 actions, discard a card for each action. At the end of your turn, you draw back up to 8 cards. An Era ends when all players run out of cards (not when the deck is depleted).

As what to do for an action, you may do any of the following five things:

  • Take a loan (cash infusion)
  • Build a link between cities (canal or rail)
  • Build an industry in a city (cotton/coal/iron/port/shipyard)
  • Develop an industry (remove 1-2 tiles from the top of your stack(s))
  • Sell cotton (increase per-round income)

brass-flipped
Photo by Henk Rolleman

Here’s the rub: For an industry tile you’ve played to be any good, it needs to be used, or flipped. Cotton mills and ports can be flipped when a player sells cotton. Coal mine and iron works tiles are built with a certain amount of coal or iron sitting on them, and get flipped when their respective resources are depleted. When a tile is flipped, it is literally turned upside down to reveal the per-round income it will earn you, and how many points it’s worth at scoring. You won’t get any income or points for your unflipped (unused) industries, so only build what you think has a chance be used before the end of an Era.

A good rule of thumb is to try to build more of what other players are building less of. The demand will come, and the fewer players you have to share that demand with, all the better for you!

Scoring points

At the end of each Era, there is a round of scoring. Players get points for their flipped industry tiles and for their links to industrialized cities. After scoring the Canal (first) Era, all canal links and level 1 industry tiles are removed from the board, leaving a partially clean board for the beginning of the Rail Era.

Elsewhere

In the interest of (relative) brevity, I won’t get into any more specifics about the rules here, but Warfrog has a downloadable PDF of the rules, as well as a FAQ page for those that are interested in learning more about how the game works. You’ll also want to check out the rewritten rules on BoardGameGeek after seeing the official ones! The BGG forums for Brass are another great resource if you have rules questions, or just want to read what other people have to say about the game. Finally, BGG has a wonderful image gallery of people playing Brass, some of the playing pieces, etc. All of the images used in this review are courtesy of BGG users.

brass-board-detail2
Photo by Henk Rolleman

The Review

Brass is an absolutely brilliant game, and I’m thrilled to have the chance to share my thoughts on it. It’s certainly not a simple game, and you’ll probably play it wrong on your first attempt (as I did), but I’ve found it to be a true gem after several plays, and I don’t expect my opinion to change anytime soon. Brass shares much in common with old-school railroad games, but emerges as its own unique experience.

Playing Brass actually makes me feel a bit like a 19th-century English businessman. Wallace has clearly designed the game to be thematic. Yes, there are some niggly rules exceptions, but the mechanics of Brass are largely refined abstractions of business processes from the period. Taking into account the geographical element, it’s amazing how much complexity Wallace was able to distill into a really fun, and relatively simple game. The game’s soul draws me in.

Brass can be quite contentious and cutthroat with 4 players, and slightly less so with 3. With either number, there will always be that delicious tension between wanting to increase your income, score more points, and position yourself to grab the prime locations on the board, whilst trying not to run out of money or have your plans foiled by the other players, all of whom are trying to do the same thing. There is a lot going on, and there will always be more you want to do than you are able to do – a sign of a solid and worthy game. I highly recommend Brass to those who like their games meaty and strategic, and who don’t mind using their first play or two of Brass to learn how to play it.

If you enjoyed this review and would like to see more of them from me, please let me know in the comments.

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Pin Your Footers The CSS Way

I have been using a new CSS technique for creating fixed footers – that is, footers which pin themselves to the bottom of the browser window – without using JavaScript. Headscape designer Ed Merritt is the one who came up with the idea, and like most elegant solutions, this one is so simple that I wish I’d thought of it. It really works.

Assuming your basic HTML layout markup looks like below:

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<div id="container">
  <div id="content"></div>
  <div id="footer"></div>
</div>

… you can use the following CSS example to pin your footer:

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#container {
  position:absolute;
  min-height:100%;
}
 
#content {
  margin-bottom:100px; /* same as footer height */
}
 
#footer {
  position:absolute;
  bottom:0;
  height:100px; /* same as content margin-bottom */
}

So, hack away. It’s not suitable for every design, of course, but it just might help you get rid of that annoying whitespace below your footer, for instance on a content-starved page which ends up far short of the window height.

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Game Review: Ra

Box cover of Ra

For my first review of a board game, I’d like to feature a true classic: Ra, by prolific game designer Reiner Knizia. Knizia has designed hundreds of board and card games, but among gamers, Ra is widely considered to be one of his finest creations.

Box, board, and bits of Ra

Ra is a Eurogame with a pasted-on Egyptian theme. What I mean by this is that, in the end, it’s really an auction game that could just as easily have been about space ships, dinosaurs, or fine art. It could have been about anything else, and it would play exactly the same way. The gameplay has little to do with Egypt, and the theme has little to do with what makes Ra a great game. The credit for that goes to the game’s core mechanics, and that is what places Ra squarely in the Eurogame camp: Its main focus is on the gameplay itself, rather than the theme.

I’m reviewing the Überplay edition of Ra, which I own. I understand that Überplay is now defunct, but Rio Grande Games has picked up the rights to publish the next edition Ra, and that printing will probably hit shelves in 2009.

What’s in the box?

The board

In addition to the nicely printed (and short) rules booklet, there is a board, a canvas bag, “sun” auction markers, scoring counters, a Ra figurine, and a bunch of cardboard tiles (and by a bunch of tiles, I mean a whole lot of tiles).

As it turns out, the board is little more than a pair of “tracks” for auction tiles to sit on. Fortunately, it’s not entirely pointless, as it also contains a simple reference that reminds how the different types of tiles are scored. I suppose the only other justification for the board is its Egyptian-themed artwork, which can help reinforce an otherwise weak theme. As I’ve already pointed out, though, the theme is of no real importance to this game.

When you score points in Ra, you receive little “tablets” with quasi-Egyptian numerals on them. They come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, and 10. A cool way to keep track of how many points you have throughout the game.

The auction markers are wooden “sun” pieces, numbered 1-16. In an auction, players bid with these suns, and ties don’t happen because there are no duplicate numbers. The heart of the game, however, is the enormous complement of auction tiles, and as I mentioned above, there are quite a few of those. The different types of auction tiles you’ll come across are:

Pharaoh tiles

Pharaoh tiles

Nile tiles

Nile tiles

Flood tiles

Flood tiles

Civilization tiles

Civilization tiles

Monument tiles

Monument tiles

Disaster tiles

Disaster tiles

God tiles

God tiles

Gold tiles

Gold tiles

Epoch tiles

Epoch tiles

How to play (in a nutshell)

Ra is all about auctions. Every auction gives players a chance to win a set of tiles. The basic gist is that you can choose to do one of three possible things on your turn:

  1. Draw a tile from the bag and place it on the board.
  2. Call for an auction to begin.
  3. Discard one of your god tiles and claim a single tile of your choice on the board.

Scoring points

Ra is played in three rounds, or Epochs. An Epoch comes to an end when the Ra tile track fills up, or when everyone has played all their suns. At the end of each Epoch, players score points for the tiles they own. The goal is to have the most points at the end of the game.

Elsewhere…

In the interest of (relative) brevity, I won’t get into the details of the rules any further here, but BoardGameGeek has a downloadable PDF of the rules for those that are interested in learning more about how the game works. The BGG forums for Ra are also a great resource to check out if you have rules questions, or just want to read what other people have to say about the game. BGG also has a wonderful image gallery of people playing Ra, some of the playing pieces, etc.

Auction tiles

The Review

Ra is such a simple, smart, easy-to-teach game. It’s just plain fun, and I’d recommend it to almost anybody, even many non-gamers. It plays pretty quickly, and the press-your-luck element is fantastic. Everyone I’ve introduced to Ra has loved it, too. Despite the loose-fitting theme, the game is still visually rich. Yelling “RA!” when you want to start an auction is a blast as well. I very highly recommend Ra.

I would say that the biggest hurdle for newcomers to Ra would be picking up on how some of the scoring works, but even that isn’t too cumbersome. There’s a cheat sheet on the game board that summarizes the scoring very nicely, and it’s not too hard to get used to. Like most games, the best way to learn how to play it is to play it.

The bidding is streamlined, and the other players’ suns are easy to read across the table, so you will always have an idea of how likely you are to win those tiles you want. There are often plenty of opportunities to bluff or force someone else to play their high sun too early, setting you up to win a bigger auction later. That is, if the Epoch doesn’t end first!

There is wonderful tension in Ra. Players are constantly balancing the desire to wait and get the best value for their suns with the knowledge that they need to get what tiles they can before the end of the round arrives. The game is a ticking clock, and everyone feels it.

In conclusion, Ra is one of my favorite games. It’s not a terribly heavy or complex strategy game, and there is a bit of luck/chaos due to the draw bag, but it still rewards smart play most of the time. Most importantly, it’s ridiculously fun, and doesn’t take all night to play. In the end, those two things are what makes it so much more likely to hit the table than some other really good games. Even if the Egyptian thing was just tacked on at the last minute.

If you enjoyed this review and would like to see more of them from me, please let me know in the comments.

Photos by Kurt Keckley and Stan Mamula on BoardGameGeek. Many thanks, guys!

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Picking Up the Bass Again

Now that's a rig In about a week, I’ll be playing bass again for the first time in about a year. I’m really looking forward to it. All things being equal – if I were to lose all my wonderful electric guitar effects pedals (toys) – I think I might even prefer bass guitar over electric.

Bass players are often maligned. Many assume a bassist is probably the least talented player in a band. That may be true sometimes, but that doesn’t change the fact that bass is just as vital to a band’s sound as drums, guitars, or any other instrument.

Bass is about keeping the bottom end moving. It’s about paving a musical roadway for the other instruments to travel on. As a guitarist, I have another reason to appreciate bass: without it, guitars sound weak and tinny. Bass epitomizes unselfish musicianship on the surface, but underneath, it is perhaps the most important instrument on stage. It’s subtle and subliminal, and enhances everything around it.

I find myself following the bass line more often than guitar parts when listening to music.

When I mix a live band, I usually try to bump up the bass as much as possible. Everything else sounds better with a good dose of bass. Like anything else, there can be too much of a good thing, but don’t be afraid to be generous when doling out bass. Your ears will thank you later.

Years ago, I sold my monster bass rig. I used to own a 800W amp and an Aguilar 410 cab. I still have my funky Reverend Rumblefish bass, though. It hasn’t been touched in I don’t know how long, and I anticipate some cleaning, re-stringing, and action adjustments!

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ALA: Faux Absolute Positioning

One of my favorite web publications, A List Apart, has pushed an article about a new CSS layout technique that the author, Eric Sol, calls Faux Absolute Positioning. Up until now, I’d always relied primarily on floating divs. Other folks preferred using (real) absolute positioning, but that required the use of JavaScript to keep the footer from smooshing things.

For gridtastic designs, this new technique appears to be the best answer CSS has to offer yet. The benefits of absolute positioning, but using relative positioning + negative margins so as not to break the layout. I plan to try this out on future sites I work on, so I withhold final judgment, but as things look right now, Eric Sol will end up as my new CSS rockstar hero.

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